an insider's guide to where to eat in Istanbul from traditional Ottoman restaurants to tucked-away taverns, inside the Old City, near to Sultanahmet and Kariye Museum. By Terry Richardson, Telegraph Travel's Istanbul expert.
Given its superb situation at the confluence of the Mediterranean and Black Sea worlds, with easy access to the fertile farmlands of Thrace and Anatolia and the agricultural riches of the hinterland, it’s hardly surprising that Istanbul boasts one of the world’s richest cuisines.
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Whether it is freshly caught bluefish, tender lamb kebab, melt-in- your-mouth stuffed aubergine, the vast array of meze (starters) or rich, butter-soaked, pistachio-stuffed baklava, there’s more than enough choice for ever
Dine in a swanky rooftop or Bosphorus-front restaurant, get down with the common man in a humble kebab joint or grab a simit (sesame-studded bread ring) from a street vendor.
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Balıkçı Sabahattın
This simple old wooden building, in a yet-to- be-renovated part of the old city and just a short walk down from Sultanahmet, is a surprising place to find one of Istanbul’s best fish restaurants. It attracts well-heeled Istanbulites from across the city despite sometimes offhand service. Licenced.
his simple old wooden building is a surprising place to find one of Istanbul’s best fish restaurants
Address: Seyit Hasan Koyu Sokak 1, Cankurtaran
Contact: 00 90 212 458 1824, balıkcısabahattın.com
Prices: mains from 35TL (about £9.71)
Opening times: daily, 11am-1pm
Reservations: advised
Payment types: cards accepted
Giritli
Close to the Sea of Marmara on the south side of the old city and easily walkable from Sultanahmet, this is arguably the most convenient and best place to indulge in an all- inclusive meyhane (tavern) style meal. The copious, Cretan-style meze are mouthwatering, the fish-based hot starters excellent and the fish mains grilled to perfection. Local wine, beer or the aniseed spirit raki are part of the deal - but you can order a la carte if you wish. Housed in an old wooden building with a pleasant garden for hot summer evenings
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Address: Keresteci Hakkı Sokak, Ahırkapı
Contact: 00 90 212 458 2270, giritlirestoran.com
Prices: all-inclusive menu 145TL (about £32.58)
Opening times: daily, noon-midnight.
Payment types: cards accepted
Yeni Lokanta
Traditional Turkish dishes given a thoroughly modern make-over by famed chef Çivan Er, Yeni Lokanta (New Restaurant) has become one of the places to see and be seen in bustling Beyoğlu, making advance bookings esential. It’s well worth the effort though, with a wide range of unusual meze (starters) such as bulgur wheat with sour cherries, and mains including raki-infused sea bass with cheese and rocket. Or try the taster menu (for two people), which includes lots of starters, a main and dessert and coffee. Licenced.
Address: Kumbarcı Yokuşu 66, Beyoğlu
Contact: 00 90 212 292 2550; lokantayeni.com
Prices: mains from 45TL (about £10.11); taster menu for two 310TL (around £69.66)
Opening times: Mon-Sat, noon-midnight
Reservations: advised
Payment types: cards accepted
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Asitane
Specialising in Ottoman favourites (try “the Sultan likes it”, a tender stew of lamb served on puréed aubergine), this stylish period restaurant has a delightful courtyard garden, and a wonderful location out by the stunning Kariye Museum, some three miles from Sultanahmet.
Specialising in Ottoman favourites this stylish period restaurant has a delightful courtyard garden, and a wonderful location
Address: Kariye Camii Sokak 18, Edirne Kapı
Contact: 00 90 212 841 4534, asitanerestaurant.com
Prices: mains from 45TL (about £10.11)
Opening times: daily, 11am-midnight
Reservations: advised
Payment types: cards accepte
Hamdi Et Lokantası
Combines some of the best kebabs in the city with fine views across the Golden Horn. It’s always packed, with locals and visitors alike enjoying the succulent grills and delcious baklava. Licenced.
Combines some of the best kebabs in the city with fine views across the Golden Horn
Address: Kalçın Sokak 17, Eminönü
Contact: 00 90 212 528 0390, hamdi.com.tr
Prices: mains from 32TL (about £7.19)
Opening times: daily, 11am-midnight
Reservations: advised
Payment types: cards accepted
Khorasani
Khorasani, unlike many Istanbul kebab joints, is handily situated right in the tourist heartland of Sultanahmet. The kebabs are grilled to succulent perfection over charcoal, and include all kinds of southeast specials, some studded with pistachios, others with the meat interspersed with smoky aubergine slices. There’s a range of superb meze to chose from to start with and drinks are reasonably priced. Licenced.
Address: Ticarethane Sokak 39/41, Divan Yolu
Contact: 00 90 212519 5959, khorasanirestaurant.com
Prices: Kebabs from 37TL (about £8.31)
Opening times: daily, noon-1am
Reservations: advised
Payment types: cards accepted
Amedros
Arguably the best of the bistro-style joints in Sultanahmet, with dishes ranging from Ottoman-revivalist to truly international. Service is attentive but not obtrusive, portions hearty and the ambience relaxed. Licenced.
The best of the bistro-style joints in Sultanahmet
Address: Hoca Rüstem Sokak 7, Divan Yolu, Sultanahmet
Contact: 00 90 212 522 8356, amedroscafe.com
Prices: mains from 30TL (about £6.74)
Opening times: daily, 11am-1am
Reservations: advised
Payment types: cards accepted
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Akdeniz Hatay Sofrası
Unpromisingly located in the business district of Aksaray, right next door to the Historia shopping mall, this brings the very best of southeastern Turkish, Arab-influenced food to the heart of the metropolis. Try the zingy thyme salad zahter, the spicy walnut and pepper dip muhammara and the signature main of rice-stuffed chicken baked in salt and brought flaming to your table.
Address: Ahmediye Caddesi 44/A, Aksaray
Contact: 00 90 212 531 3333, akdenizhataysofrasi.com.tr
Prices: mains from 28TL (about £6.29)
Opening times: daily, 9am -midnight
Reservations: not necessary but the salt-baked chicken must be ordered 3 hours in advance
Payment types: cards accepted
Krependeki Imroz
At this boisterous meyhane (tavern) on heaving Nevizade Sokak in Beyoğlu, the rakı (Turkish ouzo) is as important as the fresh meze, fish and grills. The fixed menu, which includes alcohol, is good value.
This boisterous restaurant is found in the trendy Beyoğlu district
Address: Nevizade Sk. No: 24 Balıkpazarı Beyoğlu
Contact: 00 90 212 249 9073
Prices: mains from 25TL (about £5.62)
Opening times: daily, 11am-1am
Reservations: advised
Payment types: cards accepted
Çiya Sofrası
Head across the Bosphorus for a wonderful lunch in Asia. Kadıköy, home to Turkish football giants Fenerbahçe, also boasts one of its best-regarded restaurants. Pick up a plate of delicious meze as a meal in itself, or tuck into a speciality kebab. Not licenced.
Address: Guneşlibahçe Sokak 43, Kadıköy
Contact: 00 90 216 330 3190; ciya.com.tr
Prices: mains from 18TL (about £4.04)
Opening times: daily, 11am-midnight
Reservations: not necessary
Payment types: cards accepted